Posted by: Karlee A. Turner | November 9, 2014

Godey’s, June 1865

Below is a fashion plate from Godey’s Lady’s Book from June 1865.

Godey’s Lady’s Book

Plate 36. June 1865. Fig. a. Morning costume for a watering-place. Dress of white alpaca gored a L’Imperatrice, and trimmed with rose velvet ribbon and goat-hair tassels. The hair is a la Pompadour, with a coiffure of black silk net, with large beads and a velvet coronet. Fig. b. Afternoon dress for a young lady, or blue grenadine, cross-barred and figured with black. A waved trimming of pale blue silk with black lace, chenille tassels, and gimp on skirt and bertha. The low corsage is pointed, showing a chemisette of thin muslin puffs and Valenciennes inserting. The bertha crosses in front, and ties in back with long ends. Fig. c. Promenade dress and mantle of brown alpaca, trimmed with black velvet and ball fringe. The jacket is Senorita shape, quite short in back. The dress is looped over a skirt of white lustre, trimmed with scarlet braid and fluted ruffles. Brown straw hat.  Fig. d. Morning costume for a watering-place. A gored dress of white pique, trimmed with a fluted ruffle. The overdress is Violone cambric, trimmed with a fluted ruffle and a gay border. A fanchon of black lace is thrown over the head and tied under the chin. Fig. e. A dress and shawl of white organdy muslin, striped with black. The skirt is scalloped on the edge and bound with scarlet braid; scarlet sash. The sleeves are scalloped with red, and trimmed with small pearl buttons. White chip hat. White silk parasol, covered with black lace.

Posted by: Karlee A. Turner | November 2, 2014

VERY brief Fashion History for 1840’s-1850’s

A Glimpse of some Fashion History

However, I thought my visitors might enjoy a little something on women’s fashion in 1847/1848 and 1858. Although whaling wives were unlikely to dress at the height of fashion for daily life on board ship, they did enjoy “dressing up” while gamming or in port. Therefore, I have included a brief description of fashion for both decades and a few fashion plates because a wordy, detailed description can never replace paintings from the Era or colored fashion plates.

Ladies Foundation (Undergarments) for 1840’s and 1850’s. Ladies undergarments changed little during the 1840-50’s.  They still wore a wide chemise which had short sleeves and was about knee-length.  Crotchless Drawers were also an option but not as widely used as the chemise. Of course, stays (corsets) served as the foundation for a fashionably small waist, which also meant the corsets (stays) were laced more tightly.  Petticoats were worn in multiple layers to support the longer, ever-widening skirts of dresses. 

Dresses of the 1840’s-1850’s: The fuller sleeves fashionable during the thrities did not dissappear entirely during the forties and fifties, but the “balloon” or fuller sleeves moved down lower on the arm and fitted more closely.  Additionally, by the late forties and through the fifties, the bodice of the dresses came to a point and closed with hooks, buttons, or laces down the front or back.

Hairstyles:  Hair was parted in the middle and pulled smoothly to the temples where it was arranged in hanging sausage-shaped curls or in plaits or with a loop of hair encircling the ears. At the back, hair was pulled into a chignon.

Posted by: Karlee A. Turner | October 11, 2014

October 10, 1849

Mary Brewster, WEDNESDAY [October] 10th [1849]: “Went on shore this morning. Have made calculation to take our meals at the Mansion House and we have hired a room close by to lodge at — It seems like being home to see so many familiar faces and so many old acquaintances. I cannot realize we have been home since we were at this place — Honolulu has improved very much — and is quite a growing place — there are many new families and are constantly coming from all quarters — The government is entirely under American influence and managed by them. The King is a mere cipher and is dependent entirely upon his ministers and does nothing without their sanction and approval –.”

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Posted by: Karlee A. Turner | October 9, 2014

6th, 8th, 9th October 1849

Mary Brewster, SATURDAY [October] 6th [1849]: “Light winds from E to ESE and squally. Latter fresh trades. Saw two ships one of them the Almira now out of sight. A fine evening with beautiful weather. In two days we shall be in port [of Honolulu].   LAT. 23.24   LONG. 154.17.”

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Mary Brewster, MONDAY [October] 8th [1849]: “Fresh trades and fine weather. At 9 AM made Maui, at dark Molokai in sight 30 miles distant. Light sails all in. Ship heading W by South. Two ships in sight today.   LAT. 24.52   LONG. 155.54.”

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Mary Brewster, TUESDAY [October] 9th [1849]: “At 12, came aback this morning we were clearing land at 9 o’clock was at anchor. A number of our Arctic fleet have arrived. The pilot informed us of the death of Capt. Winters with the loss of his ship. It went ashore in a thick fog, was full, everything was lost. Capt. W- went on board of his brother’s ship the E. Frith and died about a week afterward. Mr. Damon, Capt. Fales, and several has been on board — tomorrow we go ashore to pick me out a room. How glad I am to leave the ship and do feel truly thankful to God that we have thus far been preserved amid so many dangers and are again safely at anchor and where we can hear from friends and home –“

Posted by: Karlee A. Turner | October 4, 2014

October 2nd and 4th [1849]

Mary Brewster, TUESDAY OCTOBER 2nd [1849]: “Our ship is as clean as can be — the house also having been painted and fixed up in fine style. I have been busy enough the last week and since we have got into this weather the weeks passed very fast. We all suffer from the heat and feel almost suffocated when in moderate warm weather — but I can get along with it and do enjoy this fine smooth sea. No fear now of big seas and heavy gales. Can go to bed with the assurance of a good night’s rest and no fear of being washed overboard –.”

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Mary Brewster, THURSDAY OCTOBER 4th [1849]: “Light bafferling winds from N and NE — hope to get the trades so we can get along. We are all ready for port, ship in fine order, house cleaned and looking finely. Capt. Coffin of ship Almira came on board and passed the afternoon, 26 months, 900 sperm — has a man sick with the scurvy and is fearful he will die if he does not get in soon.   LAT 26.34   LONG. 152.44.”

 

 

 

Posted by: Karlee A. Turner | September 28, 2014

27th September 1849

Mary Brewster, THURSDAY [Sept.] 27th [1849]: “This is the first pleasant day we have had. The weather has been bad enough. On the 17th it commenced blowing hard with very rugged [seas]. 18th worse, during the night ship broached to twice, split foresail, blowed away the fore topmast stay sail. Stove [damaged or broke-up] one of the boats and broke and split the bulwarks — wind fair, ship before it and rolling constantly. I spent three days and nights below — it not being safe on deck — We have now got through the sorest part of the passage and I am truly thankful it is as well with us as it is — weather is plenty warm and we can easily dispense with the fire — tomorrow the ship is to be cleaned. It will be great luxury to have a clean house and ship — LAT. 33.20   LONG. 153.44.”

 

Mary’s next journal entry is dated “Tuesday October 2, 1849″.

 

Posted by: Karlee A. Turner | September 15, 2014

September 15, 1849

Mary Brewster, SATURDAY [Sept.] 15th [1849]: “Light winds with tolerable weather the last week. A ship near but Mr. B. did not speak her knowing the ship — it is the Jeanette our old consort. It is pleasant to see a sail in this region but she sails so much better than we do that by tomorrow she will be out of sight. Wind continues fro SSW — ship going with a good full [sail?] — “

Mary Brewster did not make any journal entries dated September 16 – 26th, 1849.

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Mary Lawrence’s husband’s ship, the Addison arrived at her homeport of New Bedford, MA at sunrise on June 14, 1860

Posted by: Karlee A. Turner | September 9, 2014

9th September 1849

Mary Brewster, SUNDAY [Sept.] 9th [1899]: “A gale of wind for two days and it was rugged enough — All day calm and heavy swell, a light puff of wind occasionally, wind from SSW and unpleasant enough. Ship acts badly owing I suppose to all the oil being in the lower hole [hold] — Wind fair, it is roll roll — ahead, pitch pitch. Well, it can’t be helped.”

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Mary Lawrence’s husband’s ship, the Addison arrived at her homeport of New Bedford, MA at sunrise on June 14, 1860

Posted by: Karlee A. Turner | September 6, 2014

6th September 1849

Mary Brewster, THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 6th [1849]: “Up to this date we have had good weather; have got all ready for blows and bad seas. From the appearance without we shall have it very rugged soon — Weather thick and cold, wind ahead, ship heading W.”

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Mary Lawrence’s husband’s ship, the Addison arrived at her homeport of New Bedford, MA at sunrise on June 14, 1860

Posted by: Karlee A. Turner | September 2, 2014

September 1-2, 1849

Mary Brewster, SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 1st [1849]: “Light westerly airs with beautiful clear weather. I have been busy fixing for rugged weather. Mr. B. has been on board of the Two Brothers and passed the afternoon. Finished boiling. Stowed down the oil and the decks are quite cleared up. [The day] Ends with fine weather —   LAT. 63.48    LONG. 174.44.”

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Mary Brewster, SUNDAY [August] 2nd [1849]: “Quite winterish sleet and snow, real cool and misty weather. I begin to dread the passage — oh how glad I shall be if we ever get into good weather it will be a great treat. We have got a good wind and if we had a ship which would sail the passage would not be much. As it is it will take us some time longer — I’ll never go to sea again in a dull ship, never can get anywhere, at any rate I will try and keep my husband at home. Then there will be no fretting about passages being made.   LAT. 62.37   LONG. 174.44.”

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Mary Lawrence’s husband’s ship, the Addison arrived at her homeport of New Bedford, MA at sunrise on June 14, 1860

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